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FAQ
Q. What makes the Oillift
cleaning technology unique apart from its performance?
A. Oillift is made from Organic
Hydrocarbons (plants) as oppose to Petroleum Hydrocarbons (Oil). Currently the bulk
of the cleaning products and solvent market products are made from oil. It is well
documented that most oil based cleaners and solvents have significant health and
environmental problem associated with them. These initial toxicity, carcinogenic
and ability to pervade in the environment is well documented and are coming under
restrictions on a global scale.
Q. Oillift is made from
Organic Hydrocarbons; it performs same as oil based cleaners?
A. Typically, non-toxic products
have not performed very well and have had limited application and poor acceptance.
Oillift has been developed a group of replacements based on plant or organic surfactants
(cleaners) and solvents which outperform most petroleum based products without the
side effects. This innovation in chemistry allows us to create industrial strength
replacements for the bulk of the toxic products in industry as well as household.
Q. Oillift is industrial
strength is it harmful to any surfaces and skin?
A. No, not at all
The reason asphalt breaks up is when it is exposed to any chemical with sufficient
strength to dissolve the oil component. This can be brake fluid, varsol, diesel,
gasoline, even hot oil if the asphalt has a low aggregate content. Asphalt by itself
is not actually bonded together like paint. It's literally held in place by gravity
or squished down. the tar or oil part is what fills the spaces and provides some
level of water proofing so the base underneath does not wash away. With that being
said, it is chemically impossible for the oil lift to dissolve normal asphalt. It
simply does not have that level efficacy. Every cleaner made has a very specific
penetration or wetting ratio. what makes this product work is it has high penetration
yet a very low ratio of energy to dissolve oil. The products you see dissolving
oil are the items like the dispersants you saw them spraying in the Gulf of Mexico
oil spill. These chemicals simply blow apart the oil.
The real problem with home driveways is the size of aggregate. The big rocks work,
the little ones fall apart really easily. I have seeing countless driveways were
gas or a similar substance is spilled and then somebody pressure washes and the
whole thing falls apart. The real problem is the big rocks cost more. For city roads
the aggregate size and thickness is specified based on desired longevity.
Q. Oillift cost more?
A. No, Oil Lift products are industrial
- strength concentrates. They can be diluted up to 10 - 20 parts water for cleaning
applications. For cleaning windows and outside of vehicles, for example, we recommend
using at least 20 parts water, therefore, in the long run, consumers actually save
money. While at the same, they can vary the concentration with less water added
for really ugly stains. Oillift is concentrates, you dilute it before you use
it, so we provide double chamber dilution bottle.
Q. Oillift can be used
on an all cotton sweater, or any type of clothes for that matter?
A. Yes you can use it on clothes
as long as you follow the laundering instructions on the clothes (label). Make sure
you spot test prior to use (color fast) and that the cloths are already shrunk.
When we do our laundry we have a spray bottle at 8 parts water to 1 part oil lift
for spot removal and then we use half a cup of Oillift diluted at ten parts water.
Depending on whether you have hard water or soft water will determine the dilution.
Basically you have to play with it. Also, note you don’t need laundry detergent
or bleach. The Oillift will break down the laundry detergent and it even cleans
out your washing machine of the moldy laundry detergent inside the machine. To determine
if your machine has moldy laundry detergent inside, smell your towels after a couple
of days of use. If they smell moldy your machine has a mold problem. Simply wash
some big towels in hot water and stop the machine when it is filled with water for
half an hour. This will give Oillift time to work and break up the mold and detergent.
Repeat if necessary.
Q. I have a bad oil spill on an asphalt
driveway. Does your product work for such stains?
A. The oil lift oil remover is the product you
want for this application. it will remove 99% of the oil. Sometimes the oil has
stained the surface and it takes a few days for the color to bleach back out to
gray. Flushing with hot water seems to speed this up.
You should always spot test on the application, check to see if the oil or fluid
has not damaged the surface by pressing a key into the surface. Oil lift cannot
repair damaged asphalt.
Q. I would prefer to use spray paint
because of the small size of the items I’m painting and the wide variety of the
flat and hunter colors available. I really don’t want permanently paint any of my
hunting guns, any help or recommendations you could provide would be great.
A. The removable paint comes as a clear. you
can use universal paint tint to make colors. I'm working on a color pallet yet this
will take some time. you can use the oil lift to remove it. It's a hard acrylic
so it takes some abuse and chemical attack.
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Q. Why do you advise
that the waste water from cleaning oil from driveways should be dumped on the grass?
Aren't we trying to avoid ground water contamination by the oil in the first place?
A. For years the people in the water conservation
world have tried to get people to wash their car over grass or gravel. The reason
is to prevent direct discharge of pollutants into an aquatic body.
The soil contains bacteria and enzymes that digests the pollutants. This is how things
biodegrade. This is the reason you see the culverts beside roads being replanted
to replace the concrete drain systems all over the world. These are known as Aquarian
buffer zones, bio swales etc. Basically it's the same principle as using a water
filter accept that it also digests the waste.
When cleaning an oil stain from a driveway people mainly just flush it down the storm
drains and it discharges directly into the streams, rivers, lakes and ultimately
to the ocean. By encouraging people to soak it up and use nature’s filtration systems,
we are hoping to have some impact in reducing the water pollution. The good news
is since we made the first commercial doing this, lots of people really became water
aware and are taking the next step in the thinking process to question what the
heck is going on here. The ideal situation is to educate people to clean up the
oil with a product that actually breaks down the oil. We just launched our new product
called Flubber Dust that biodegrades oil when wet with natural bacteria and when
dry it's actually a molecular sieve that when heated in the sunlight or your micro
wave, splits the petroleum hydrocarbon you are left with powdered carbon which is
plant food. Organic hydrocarbon.
The funny thing about this whole process, is the weirder I make my products, the
more people play with them and the more real impact we have on reducing the largest
form of water pollution in the world. Oil in parking lots. The goal is to create
worldwide brands with real products in the hopes that the water awareness spills
over and people actually take action. The good news is people like you are asking
the questions which will lead to this change one drop at a time.
Q. I tried the graffiti remover on a
steal door that is painted. Not only the graffiti came out also the paint on the
door. Is that possible.
A. All graffiti is paint; the difference between
our remover and others is it is for ink and black felt markers as well. The main
selling features for the applicators are it does not burn their skin and the long
dwell time. The solvent products evaporate to fast.
On doors the paint is usually UV damaged and they use cheaper paint. The trick is
to get the coating on the doors then use the remover so you have no paint damage.
As soon as the super wax is finished we will add that to the war chest.
Q. In the video (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1PrRg45BMU0), they talk about
using multiple products which absorbs the oil and re-hardens the asphalt. Exactly
which products are used in that video?
A. What happens is the oil or usually diesel
softens the asphalt. When you clean the surface with Oil lift is removes the bulk
of the contaminant and the surface harden back up. Generally you should use the
oil lift oil remover and the Flubber dust product for this application. Something
really weird happens when you leave Flubber dust on asphalt over a few weeks. the
oil just disappears. the chemical process is the Flubber dust sucks the water out
of the oil molecule and breaks it apart.
Q. will your product harm the laqure
finish on the boat if i use it and some of it got on the wood jim.
A. It depends on the quality and UV aging of
the lacquer?
It cleans everything really well. I test everything first, as each situation is job
specific. The big thing with wood is actually unnoticed paint failure. Binding paints
to wood to get adhesion has being the Bain of the paint industry for years as the
cellulose and tannins, resins act as bond breakers. A little bit of UV and expansion
and contraction and film can peel off. So the simple rule is, what can go wrong
will go wrong, so test and take precautions.
Q. I recently just bought the oillift
flubber dust. I noticed you can use it on carpet. How can you use it on carpet?
I have some oil spilt in my car and I`d like to clean it up.
A.When you use it on carpet there are two things
to consider.
- is it a wet stain
- is it a dry stain?
If its wet you just use it as an absorbent, sprinkle it on and let it grab the spilled
material. then you let it dry and vacuum it up. If it’s a dry stain you need to
use some oil lift to lift the stain or de-bond the stain from the fabric and then
you Flubber dust it and follow the same procedure.
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